A summer adventure

Most travellers visiting Switzerland choose to go in winter in order to capitalise on the country’s impressive and world-renowned ski slopes. This is not surprising, perhaps, but the country’s notable terrain lends itself perfectly to summer adventures, too. For sporty,…

Most travellers visiting Switzerland choose to go in winter in order to capitalise on the country’s impressive and world-renowned ski slopes. This is not surprising, perhaps, but the country’s notable terrain lends itself perfectly to summer adventures, too. For sporty, outdoorsy types, nothing should beat hiking in the scenic surroundings of Switzerland. Offering eminent trekking environments set in alpine surroundings, the so-called “Haute Route” (also called The High Route or Mountaineers’ Route) is the cream of the crop when it comes to trekking and skiing trails alike. Initially charted as a summer mountaineering route by members of the Alpine Club (UK) around 1850, the classic trekking (and, of course, skiing) path starts at Chamonix and ends at Zermatt, and thus connects Mont Blanc with the Matterhorn. The entire route winds its way over 180km, and incorporates 10 of the 12 highest peaks in the Alps. To endeavour to trek the entire route takes a minimum of 12 days (if equipped with a pair of skis, estimate a little over half that number). Spectacular nature and marvellous views is at the core of the experience, but a number of worthy villages, hamlets and established resorts give the route a multi faceted quality.

Grimentz calling
Of all the stops along the Haute Route, the most worthy of all is arguably the little mountain town of Grimentz. Postcard-pretty and well preserved, this little pint-sized spot is located in Val d’Annviers in the French-speaking part of the Valais canton, nestling at 1570m above sea level, where the Corne de Sorebois (2896m) divides the Val d’Anniviers (Eifischtal) into the Zinal Valley and the Moiry Valley. The historic centre dates back to the middle ages, and one of its oldest buildings is the 15th century Burgher’s House which very much serves as the focal point of the village. But 15th century architecture is not the sole aesthetic direction – Grimentz offers variation aplenty as far as buildings are concerned, and houses from the 17th and 18th century mix with grain stores, rustic looking barns, modern chalet-style inns and quaint shops. The most eye-opening characteristic, however, must be the decorative aspect of the village. During summer the buildings come to life, quite literally, with the help of colourful flower arrangements that virtually explode in vibrant splendour. Mostly, these botanical masterpieces are created using sprouting geraniums in an array of saturated hues, and the tradition first saw the light of day back in the 1930s when residents started to prettify their houses this way. Ever since, the somewhat camp floral displays have captivated tourists from across the globe. There’s even a designated “Geranium Trail” in Grimentz that was conceived to shed light on every layer of the plant as well as introduce some of its lesser-known varieties and the different fragrances associated with each variant. At the end of the informative tour, the chance that anyone would ever dismiss the geranium as a simple “granny plant” is scarce.

Embedded in the midst of the geranium overload lies the old village square, and every Friday it’s home to a large market where Valais products of all denominations are served up. Valais fruit brandy and an array of cheeses such as Valais Raclette Cheese are two traditional wares up for grabs, but the most celebrated product of all is undoubtedly the famous Glacier wine. This beverage originates in Val d´Annivier, a valley south of Sierre/Siders. The composition has changed a little since it was first conceived – originally it consisted of 90 percent Rèze wine and a 10 percent Humagne Blanc, Ermitage, Petite Arvine and Malvoisie­ – whereas nowadays the wine is made primarily of Fendant (Chasselas) with a dash of Ermitage and Malvoisie mixed in to give the wine its distinctive taste. Once prepared, the wine is aged for about 10 to 15 years in a series of larch-wood barrels that are kept all through the winter in Siders. Come spring, the barrels are transported in carts to Grimentz in the Val d’Anniviers where they are kept in the natural cellars only a couple of kilometres away from the glaciers. There are as many as 100 cellars in Grimentz where barrels of glacier wine are stored, and the wine is continuously topped up in order to prevent the barrels running on empty. If there ever was a product that defines Grimentz food and wine culture, Glacier wine has got to be it.

Flora and fauna, and the odd bike ride
Sipping wine may be a perfect summer past time pleasure, but there are other experiences that certainly shouldn’t be overlooked. One such affair is to witness the cattle climb up to higher mountain pastures known as Avoin. This occurrence, popularly called “the cow parade”, takes place in June every year (in 2010, it falls on the 12th) and the event forms part of the celebratory “Inalpe” festival. Rest assured that the cow parade is anything but a placid experience- the cattle tends to get a little boisterous to say the very least. Each year, the most impressive cow is awarded the noble title, “Queen”.

Leaving aside performing cows and returning to the subject of trekking, a sure-fire summer hit when visiting Grimentz is to go on a voyage of discovery along the natural wonder that is the Moiry Reservoir. The flora and fauna is as diverse as it is inspiring, and to bring the marvels of nature full circle, don’t miss the Moiry Glacier with its Glacier Falls – one of the most spectacular sites in the Alps. Before heading out on your journey, it can be quite a challenge to choose between the vast number of hiking trails available. At your disposal is a choice of more than 100km of sign-posted hiking trails, all offering different scenic excursions ranging from the Alpine panorama to the dramatic beauty of the glacier. It would be impossible to list all of the walks here, but a map covering all the pedestrian trails of Val d’Anniviers 1:25000 is sold at the tourism office in Grimentz.

If scrutinising glaciers and Alpine wildlife at the relatively slow pace is not your cup of tea and you prefer to take it all in at higher speed, the best alternative is to hop on a mountain bike. There’s no shortage of options here either, and over 100km of signed mountain bike routes stretch across Grimentz and the neighbouring village of St-Jean. Other adrenalin inducing options include canyoning in the gorges of the Gougra from Moiry to Grimentz, or bungy-jumping further down in the valley.

Centovalli
To capitalise further on the awe-inspiring nature and beautiful landscapes of Switzerland, another worthy destination is Centovalli in the canton of Ticino. This lovely river valley’s name derives from the fact that it connects with 100 valleys. Located in the only Italian speaking part of Switzerland (should you not be too well-versed in Italian, fret not – most people in Ticino speaks Italian, French, German and often also adequate English.)

Starting to explore, visitors soon realise that the area has a lot to offer, and to get the most out of the visit, try to allow at least a few days with stop-overs at either Ascona or Locarno, the latter being “the capital” of the canton. By no means a farfetched travel tip – Locarno is in fact one of the most established holiday haunts of Switzerland. And it’s easy to see why; located at the northern end of Lake Maggiore, the town boasts the mildest climate in the country, clocking up nearly 300 days of sun a year, or roughly 2,300 hours. During June-August, temperatures hover around a pleasant 20-25°C and although the temperature doesn’t rise much above that average, the prevailing sub tropical vegetation lends the locale a decidedly Mediterranean identity.

Functioning as the spine of the town centre, Piazza Grande is lined with a plethora of cafés and fine dining establishments. When sitting down for a bite to eat, try to complement your dish with a glass of Merlot of Ticino to get the full local culinary experience.

In terms of entertainment and culture, Locarno has a few strings to its bow, hosting the music festival, Moon and Stars, set to run from 7-17 July this year, as well as the renowned Locarno International Film Festival. This year marks the 63rd outing for the event. Taking place 4-14 August 2010, the festival will welcome around 160,000 cinema-goers, 1,000 journalists, and 3,000 film industry professionals.

On the mountain top
Looking beyond the urban aspects that Locarno has to offer, a funicular ride up the mountainside provides a sharp diversion into nature. Although the vertigo-inducing trip is spectacular in its own right, it can also serve as a springboard for further mountain adventures. To reach higher up the top, take the “tear-drop” gondola and then continue to the very top of the mountain via the chair lift. An idea is to take the funicular on the way up, and then opt to hike back down the mountain to enjoy the natural paths and marvellous views at a leisurely pace. Once back on ground level, the funicular hits the docks, which provides further adventure as you can hop on a boat that will take tourists to other destinations – both Swiss and Italian – that stud the lakeside.

Another interesting destination near Lake Maggiore is Ascona. Almost as popular as its cousin Locarno, and located just a hop and skip away from it, this former fishing village’s popularity owes in large part to its quaint Old Town, but it’s also celebrated for its romantic lakeside promenade and string of chic, flashy hotels. Perching right next to Lake Maggiore, the location is perfectly situated for water sports or merely a simple, relaxing swim.

Should you get restless, which is unlikely but may still occur, moving on from Locarno and Ascona couldn’t be easier as Centovalli has its own train aptly called “Centovalli”. Established in the 1920s, it runs from Locarno to Domodossola in Italy. Along the way, the train stops at a string of different towns and villages that all have their own distinctive flavour. Since trains run as often as every 30 minutes, hopping on and off shouldn’t require too much commitment to each new destination, although some of them will demand a little extra attention for their sheer charm.

The ancient “stone village” Rasa is one such example. Accessible only via gondola that takes off from the station of Verdasio, Rasa is a strange fruit of a spot, but for all good reasons. If time doesn’t allow exploring every stop, it’s still a heady adventure to embark on the complete train journey without interruption and see the landscapes rush by. From Locarno to Domodossola, the trip covers no more than 55km, yet it crosses more than 80 bridges and viaducts as well as running through a large number of tunnels on the way. It also reaches great highs, peaking at Santa Maria Maggiore that lies at 830m above sea level.

Posted on April 14, 2010 Tagged Buy, Switzerland

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