Thriving culture

The first known inhabitants of Istria were the Histri, an Illyrian tribe, from whom the area ultimately took its name. In ancient times it was an important part of the Roman Empire. With the demise of that empire, and following…

The first known inhabitants of Istria were the Histri, an Illyrian tribe, from whom the area ultimately took its name. In ancient times it was an important part of the Roman Empire. With the demise of that empire, and following the arrival of the Croats, rule of the peninsula often changed hands, and was divided between different Frankish rulers and the Aquileian Patriarchate. From the 15th century the western part of Istria was ruled by Venice, while the eastern part and the interior were under the sway of the Hapsburgs. Towards the end of the 18th century the French were briefly dominant, but then Austria once again became ascendant, its rule lasting to the end of WWI. Between the two World Wars Italy ruled, and then, after 1945, Istria finally joined its mother country of Croatia, first within Yugoslavia, and from 1991 as a constituent part of an independent state.

This very truncated survey of history is important in order for the reader to understand the roots of the wealth of Istrian culture and the special character of this area where, probably more than anywhere else in Croatia, thrived the great cultures and national groups of Slavs, Romanic and Germanic peoples. Hence the tolerance and respect for diversity for which Istrians are renowned. But they are equally well known as a people who know how to preserve their own special character. And this is why in Istria, despite a numerically small Italian minority, Croatian and Italian are equal languages, and why in most towns bilingual signs are used. 

The wealth of Istrian culture and the beauty of its heritage can be seen across the width and breadth of this magical peninsula, but perhaps most in Rovinj. The panorama of Rovinj, together with the church of St Euphemia and its bell tower in the centre, is one of the most striking symbols of Istria. The attraction of Rovinj has long since had an irresistible pull on numerous artists inspired by its lovely vistas, preserved old town houses and small, narrow, and above all picturesque, streets of the old part of town.

Pula
The largest town in Istria, Pula is located at the southernmost point of the peninsula, does not reveal its wealth of culture at the first glance, nor does it hint at the beauty of its immediate surroundings. The reasons lie in its location in a low-lying area, the size of the town and the buildings at its periphery. However, when in the centre of the town, one is immediately impressed by the monumentality and level of preservation of the amphitheatre, which bears witness to the significance of Pula and Istria going back to Ancient times. This is the sixth largest Roman amphitheatre in the world, and also one of the best preserved. 

The surroundings of Pula also abound in valuable cultural and historical monuments, in particular the Brijuni National Park, the crown jewel of Istria’s natural heritage. Contained within it are particularly valuable monuments dating from Antiquity, such as Roman villas, and the fortification complexes dating from the Hapsburg period, best known among them being the fortification on the island of Mali Brijun which today occasionally acts as a stage for theatre productions. Located close to Pula is the ancient Illyrian town of Nezactium, dating back to pre-Roman times, and rising on the most far flung, southernmost point of the Istrian peninsula, near Cape Kamenjak, is the imposing Porer lighthouse.  

And while the cultural heritage of the coastal area of Istria attracts the attention of visitors with its mostly urban Mediterranean atmosphere, its equally beautiful interior captivates with the beauty of its predominantly cultivated landscapes of small villages and towns. Unarguably, it’s most beautiful parts are the tiny romantic towns strewn atop hills, among them the best known is undoubtedly Motovun, perched above the valley of Istria’s largest river, the Mirna, and the green canopy of the Motovun Woods. It is also famous as the location for the Motovun Film Festival that, in contrast to the more traditional Pula Festival, attracts mostly young audiences that inject a different form of life into this old town. 

St Blasius
The interiors of churches and palaces found in the mainland offer much that is of great interest. Particularly attractive is the interior of the church of St Blasius, in Vodnjan, which houses mummies of saints dating from the times of the beginnings of Christianity, and the altar and frescoes in the church of St Mary in Buje. But perhaps the most striking among all works of fine arts in Istrian churches, and the best known, is the 15th-century fresco of the Dance of Death, a work by Vinzent of Kastav, in the small church of St Mary, at Škrile, in Beram, near Pazin. 

A special place in Istria belongs to the town of Labin, as the only larger town in the east of the county of Istria. This one-time mining town, famous for a rebellion of miners against the rule of Fascist Italy, is situated in the interior of the peninsula, but still quite close to the sea, at an altitude of 300m. It is also famous for its old part centred on the top of a hill, and for its strong artistic tradition. The town has several museums and galleries, the most significant being the Town Gallery, and perhaps even more so the open-air Gallery of Sculptures, where excellent contemporary sculptors still work.

The capital of Istria, Pazin, is located in its very centre and is dominated by the monumental citadel rising above the formidable Pazin Hole, which inspired the great Jules Verne to write his Mathias Sandorf. The citadel dates back to the early Middle Ages and the times of Frankish rulers. It acquired its present shape mostly in the 16th century, during Hapsburg rule. According to many, the citadel houses the most attractive museum in the entire county: the Ethnographic Museum of Istria, which houses a valuable collection of folk costumes depicting the special character of Istrian folk heritage. Standing out with its finely balanced elegance is the costume of the town of Vodnjan, in the south of Istria..

Posted on April 15, 2009 Tagged Buy, Croatia

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