One of the most enjoyable things about wine is how it can constantly surprise you. I have picked two regions here that have done that for me recently: one from the traditional region of Bordeaux, and another from the more obviously ‘modern’ Languedoc-Roussillon. One is emerging; the other is rediscovering its dynamism. One is all about Grenache, the other Cabernet Sauvignon.
Of all the different regions of Bordeaux, it is the Medoc that we think of as being the most traditional, and Saint Estephe as one of the most old school of them all.

But the last 10 years has seen influx of new owners, new techniques and new ideas, making it today one of the most exciting areas of Bordeaux.
The other surprise has been the Languedoc-Roussillon around the village of Maury. The Fenouilledes extends over 5000 hectares south of the Corbieres, with vineyards at altitude between 100 and 600 metres. I know it well, as many do, for the fantastic dessert wines of Mas Amiel. But this north-western corner of Roussillon is making wonderful red wines, and has recently attracted investors from St-Emilion, South Africa, Tain l’Hermitage, The Hague, Pomerol, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and Rutland. Big names include Jean Luc Thunevin, Bernard Magrez, Michel Chapoutier… most of the wines are bottled under Vins de Pays de Catalane, and are a revelation.

Clot de Loum, Compagnie des Papillons,
Cotes de Roussillon Villages 2005 (approx £15)
Organic winemaking is followed carefully at this 15 hectare estate, planted with the four main red grape varieties of the region (Syrah, Carignan, Grenache and Mouvedre).

For me, these offer fantastic value for money – I have chosen the Compagnie des Papillons cuvee, but they make four in the range, in increasing degrees of intensity. This is one of the most delicate, and I chose it for its incredible floral perfume of wild violets and heather; you literally could close your eyes and be picnicking on a hillside under a hot sun. It’s textured but subtle, with a bitter cherry finish. Very enjoyable.
www.clotdeloum.com, www.fenouilledes-selection.com

Chateau Serilhan, Saint Estephe
2005 (approx £15)
A rising star of Saint Estephe, where owner Didier Marcelis has hired technical director Bernard Franc from Pontet Canet, plus has as his consultant the uber cool Olivier Dauga (his eyewear alone make him the Elton John of the region). The property is getting increasing recognition, and sold its entire 100 000 bottles of the 2005 vintage in a single morning. Crisp red fruits really come through here – in a vintage which of course favoured fruit. This is fairly light in colour both for the appellation and the vintage, and the wine is known for being approachable from an early age. Fresh, modern style and utterly delicious.

Harrods, www.harrods.com

Domaine de la Pertuisane, Vins de Pays des Cotes Catalanes 2004 (approx $80)
Englishman Richard Case owns 11 hectares of 80-year-old Grenache vines around the village of Maury on deep schist soils, and makes deft use of them here. Make no mistake, this is a big wine; meaty, full of tight dark fruit, but perfumed, with a delicacy that belies the 15% alcohol. It’s a blend of 90% Grenache, 10% Carignan, with an average age of 100 years old. This is a wine that makes you think while you’re drinking it – there are many wines you can drink without barely registering, but you have to give this your attention. www.pertuisane.com, Langdon Shiverick (US), www.shiverick.com

Chateau Le Petit Bocq, Saint Estephe 2004 (approx £20)
Owned by a former doctor, Gaetan Lagneaux, this lovely estate is often considered as the sleeper of the vintage by Robert Parker. Ten years ago the vines covered just two hectares, but have now grown to 15 hectares, almost entirely gravel soils. The grapes are classic Bordeaux, but with a higher percentage of Merlot (65%) than is usual for the appellation, with the remaining given over to Cabernet Sauvignon and a sprinkling of Cabernet Franc. The vines are planted 8,000 to 10,000 feet per hectare, all hand-picked and bottled without filtration. And it really offers excellent value. Very dark in colour, with elegance and good acidity, this has plum fruits and chocolate flavourings that need some time to fully open up.
Every Wine www.everywine.co.uk

Chateau Clauzet, Saint Estephe 2004 (approx £15)
Owned by the improbably named Baron Velge, the technical director at Chateau Clauzet, Jose Bueno comes from Mouton Rothschild, which has got to be a fast way to inspire confidence in your wine. But although Velge might look the part of an aristocratic owner, he is in fact a Belgian businessman who bought the property in 1997, making him fit neatly into the new-wave of Saint Estephe owners, trying to inject a new sense of dynamism into the reigon. Covering 20 hectares, this time with a majority of Cabernet Sauvignon, and a dash of Petit Verdot that gives it a rich, deep colour. This is a wine that makes its presence felt, with an imposing structure, and tightly controlled black fruits.
The Wine Society www.winesociety.com

Calvet-Thunevin Les Trois Marie, Cotes de Roussillon
2004 (approx $100)
Another one of those wines that picks you up, shakes you firmly and sets you back down ever so slightly disorientated. Jean-Luc Thunevin, famed for Chateau Valandraud in Saint-Emilion, works here with Jean-Roger Calvet to make a range of Roussillon wines that are all of consistently high quality. Perhaps my favourite is Les Dentelles, but this one, Les Trois Marie, is a single varietal Grenache that is all about showing what can be produced from the terroir in this area. You have to give it a few years to let the new oak recede, and hold on to your hats because this is powerful stuff, but if you want a wine to impress at a dinner table, this liquorice and cassis-soaked classic will be just the ticket.
Waitrose www.waitrose.com,
Direct Wine, www.directwine.co.uk

Clos del Rey, Cotes de Roussillon
Villages 2004 (approx $50)
Jacques Montagne has been a vigneron in Maury, with vines between
100 and 300m up in the Agly valley, for a number of years, but only bottled his first wine from the 2001 vintage (he still sends a lot to the local co-operative, just keeping the very best parcels for himself). This has lovely nose of mint and basil, is rich and fairly high in alcohol (14.5%) but doesn’t seem overpowering. It’s luscious without being cloying and would be very easy to sink a few bottles. Gorgeous fruit and very supple tannins, it’s a wine that makes you want to spend weeks exploring the region. Some of his Carignan and Grenache vines are over 120 years old, dating from just after the Phyloxerra epidemic. The second wine is charmingly entitled Baby del Ray. European Cellars, Charlotte NC, www.europeancellars.com

Domaine de la Coume Majou Cotes de Roussillon Villages 2005 (approx $15)
Slightly different this one. The Flemish winemaker, Luc Charlier, is a 50-year-old Belgian who was a wine journalist and wine lecturer for 20 years, before pursuing his dream to make wine rather than write about it. He told me, ‘I believe we have the best Grenache in the world here, except perhaps Penedes in Spain and Chateauneuf du Pape’. His 10 hectares of vines are scattered around the village of Maury, which he began assembling from scratch in 2004. The wines are lighter, made for drinking younger, with no wood ageing and all sealed in screw cap. Very accomplished for their short life, this is definitely one to watch.
www.fenouilledes-selection.com