Into the Winnebago

01/08/2008
Overseas Living
Discover Canada's Vancouver Island by campervan, and spend the night beside a serene lake or a desolate beach
Many tourists flock to the capital of the island, Victoria, to sample its quaint charm and spend an afternoon perusing art galleries and indulging in a novelty fish 'n' chip supper. It must come as a pleasant alternative to the great outdoors, where many Canadians can spend everyday scaling huge mountains and avoiding 'Grizzlies'. But for those of us who make the trip across the Atlantic, Victoria offers little in novelty and, for some, may appear far too much like home.The answer is to jump in a Winnebago and set off on an adventure into the wilderness. Campbell River What better way to shrug off civilisation than by jumping into an icy river in the thickest wetsuit you can find, and let the rapids dictate your path. On Campbell River you can pay for the privilege to swim with a school of salmon as they embark on a long and arduous journey upstream to spawn.
The sensation is like nothing else, one moment you are swiftly and calmly gliding through the water as the current takes you downstream with ease. The next thing you know, you are confronted by a shimmering metallic wall of fish, all desperately working against the current to make it upstream. Now you are the one required to do some work in order to make your way past the slippery shield.
Struggling through the salmon is like making your way down Oxford Street on a busy Saturday. When finally you emerge on the other side, the river takes you on again, breathless and bemused. (£64 adults, £39 children; www.paradisefound.bc.ca).
Telegraph Cove
Keep up the aquatic theme at Telegraph Cove, a remote wildlife watchers paradise towards the northern limits of the island. This tiny town gets busy in the summer months, offering some of the best whale watching opportunities available anywhere. It is not unusual for a group to be entertained by 40 or more Orca Whales for the entire trip.
Tours with www.stubbs-island.com start at around £45pp, and for the money, you can't find a better deal elsewhere. Quadra Island Save the best until last and make the short trip to Quadra Island, the largest and most populated of the Discovery Islands, nestled between Vancouver Island and the mainland of British Columbia. Here you will come face to face with those beautiful, expansive panoramic wilderness scenes you have dreamed off from your computer desk. Quadra is a popular destination for visitors from around the world, and is best known its excellent salmon and freshwater sport fishing. The mild temperate climate and pristine environment add to the charm of the place.
A good way to take it all in is by kayak. Coast Mountain Expeditions offer a day trip for £48, exploring the Surge Narrows inlet which is so awe-inspiring, I guarantee you won't want to let go of the paddle at the end of the day (www.coastmountainexpeditions.com).
Useful information
Getting there: Fly to Vancouver with Air Canada (0871 220 1111, www.aircanada.com) from Heathrow for around £450. Getting around: Rent a 24ft motor home for around £2,000 for a fortnight (01483 500003, www.fraserway.co.uk).
Accommodation: Stay at the full-service RV parks, which offer fresh water and electrical hook-ups, costing around £10 to £20 a night.

